Just finished my first triathlon – the Kennebunk Fireman Triathlon! I did the sprint distance which was 1/3 m ocean swim, 16.4 m bike, 3.1 m run. Despite a crash on my bike and a mechanical issue that cost me 4-5 minutes, I finished in 1:51:29 – well under my 2 hour goal. Think I’ll do another!
Nationals at Copper Mountain ‘09 were a blast. Despite traveling in a blizzard on I70 and a nasty bout of altitude sickness on the first day, the trip was a huge success. Two silver medals and a grand reunion with my college pal Sal were quite fulfilling experiences.
top of Copper
Mary & Sally
Slalom podium - silver medal Kahuna group
slalom at Copper Mountain, CO
slalom
getting set at the start - I'm #420
sucking up a roller in bordercross
chasing the leader
Second place Kahuna Bordercross
Despite the mountains of mail, weeds choking the gardens, and mind-numbing jet lag, it feels absolutely amazing to be home. Thanks, Dolly, for the embroidered towel that says “There’s no place like home!” I know I’ll need some time to reflect on all that I have learned and seen and to make sense of the paradoxes of South Asia.
It’s just mind-boggling to realize that I just spent 42 days traveling to 20 cities and villages, taking 14 different flights and 2 trains, listening to over 40 lectures, and staying in 16 different hotels and 1 hospital!
Fulbright friends at the Taj Mahal … and in Sri Lanka (courtesy Jill Hetzel)
Thanks to all of my new Fulbright friends – teachers, guides, and facilitators- for a most excellent adventure.
(bottom row photos courtesy Joan Boyle)
I also have some new titles for my booklist:
Running in the Family
Wise and Otherwise
The Inheritance of Loss
The White Mary
World famous Geoffrey Bawa designed this resort to harmonize with the natural surroundings of beachfront and palms.
Our first desire… to swim in the Indian Ocean! Despite the red flag warnings, we frolicked in the wild surf, our bodies battered like bowling pins. The surf was raging in cross-current rip tides, so we kept to the relative safety of the shallow shoreline. Just a few feet further was a deep drop-off with threatening undertow like nothing I have ever experienced. No body surfing here!
The extensive pool system provided us with the soothing and safe swimming experience we craved. Everyone remarked that I finally seem “like Mary” – and they’re right… I do think I’ve recovered from my hospital experience.
sri lankan fishing boat
As the afternoon progressed, we noticed a wedding going on… again we felt like voyeurs as we were so close to the activities. The groom rides the elephant to meet his bride. Unfortunately, as the groom was descending the ladder, Ellie decided to move, which caused the groom to land on his backside.
the ceremony – the groom was English, the bride Tamil
What serenity to wake up to the sound of pounding surf and the sight of swaying palms. An entire day to ourselves to relax before the 35 hour flying marathon to our homes.
Our list of “what I’m going to first when I get home” is growing longer as each one of us starts the mental transition of reuniting with loved ones, home life, and the world of work.
What a gift this has been. I am changed.
sunset on the Indian Ocean
Tonight was our Farewell dinner to our incredible Sri Lankan friends. Tissa, Ramya, Soraya, Chitra, Ranmila, Kumara – all the staff of the Fulbright House in Colombo have made our 10 day tour of Sri Lanka so immensely rich and rewarding.
On our last day in Colombo we made two site visits beginning with the Cathedral of our Lady. Inside the Cathedral, we were moved by the children’s choir rehearsal. Though we could not understand the words, the spirituality was inspiring. In the chapel, we viewed and extensive mural of Jesus turning water into wine. Lucky for us, the artist was there to explain his contempory interpretation of the 2000 year-old Biblical story. Of course, Jesus was Sri Lankan in appearance, gesture and dress. Even the symbolic cross was the Cyrillic version. At the well were three Sri Lankan women – Sinhalese and Tamil – all wearing the modern attire of Kandian saris and skirts. Even the landscape told the story of the topography, flora and fauna of Sri Lanka. Such beautiful work.
After exploring the Cathedral, we were bussed for our very last organized visit of the trip; the 43 Group Art Gallery. Here we enjoyed room after room of Sri Lanka art, from formal oil portraits, to devil dance masks, to sensual photography, to modern art.
the gallery
palm book
devil dance mas
Around the surrounding grounds were lovely specimens of native flowers.
Four of us decided to explore the House of Fashion, a department store featuring seconds from the garment industry. It was quite strange to see Tommy Hilfiger and Sonoma branded clothing for give away prices. My purchases were minimal: a couple of pashminas and cricket jerseys. Ah, two hours of R and R at the pool before repacking for our fifteenth hotel stay at Blue Water.
SAARC publicity
Development in Sri Lanka by Dr. Anila Dias Bandaranaike
the supreme court in Colombo
Natural economic resources:
o Island attributes – natural beauty, national security (island), food, minerals, sea ports, strategic location
o Land attributes – mostly arable, mostly flat, accessible mountains, plentiful water sources, easy road/air/sea access
topographical map of Sri Lanka
(photo courtesy Wikipedia)
Human economic resources:
o Cultural attributes – rich and diverse traditions of Sinhala, Tamil, Muslem, Burgher
o Religious attributes – Buddhism, Hinduism, Islam, Christianity
o Health – rich, varied diet of proteins, starch, fats, minerals, vitamins
o Education – 2 ancient languages of Sinhala and Tamil plus the global business language of English
Health indicators:
o Population of 20 million – SL will face future issues with aging population
o Malnutrition rates are high – 29% in 2000
o Life expectancy rate is 74 (2007)
o Infant mortality rate is 12%
Education and labor indicators:
o Literacy rate is 92% in 2007
o Secondary education is 42%
o Post-secondary education is 21%
o Only 14% of eligible students gain acceptance to universities
o Education is free to end of university level
o Unemployment rate is 6%
Poverty and Social Welfare
o Per capita income is 178,830 rupees ($1,617 US)
o Poverty head count is 15.2 (2007) – large regional disparities
o Extensive social welfare since independence
o Welfare programs are universal including maternal, child nutrition, free school uniforms, food stamps, income transfers, food, fuel, fertilizer subsidies
o Unfortunately, national debt is going up, and these programs are in danger
Standard of Living
o 89% home ownership, but not all with permanent floor, walls, or roof
o 91% own land
o 80% have electricity
o 85% have access to safe water
o 91 % have sanitation
o 71% have television access
o 47% have telephone access (due to mobile phones
provinces of Sri Lanka
(photo courtesy Wikipedia)
Summaries:
o Changing structure of consumption- shift is from spending on basic needs to choice (education, leisure, transport). This reflects rising incomes and affordability.
o Excess labor in agriculture (especially in the eastern provinces)
o Western Provinces is like a middle income country
o Continuous budget deficit
Politics of Sri Lanka by Mr. Rohan Edirshinha
law lecturer at Colombo University
(photo courtesy Wikipedia)
Sri Lanka had a strong and vibrant democracy and system of law up to the 1980’s. Currently there is a rising of authoritarianism, diminishing of the democratic way. Subsequently, ethnic conflict has snowballed. The Tamil community has aspirations of self-determination and nationalism in the Eastern Provinces. They want autonomy in their homeland. Political negotiations have broken down over the past 20+ years, and many bitter feelings remain. Talks with the LTTE broke down in 1995, and the current President Chandrika Bandaranaike Kumaratunga strove to reform the Constitution to include Tamil Rights. Her line was “War for Peace”; it was strongly anti-military.
Sri Lankan security force
(photo courtesy Wikipedia)
LTTE Tiger forces
(photo courtesy Wikipedia)
Unfortunately, the reform failed as she tried to work with the Tamil Prime Minister’s philosophy of negotiation with the LLTE. Norwegians were asked to help with cease fire and negotiations. The negotiations failed for six major reasons. Some consider the conflict to be a terrorist movement, but others see it as an ethnic struggle. The new President has built up a war machine that is extremely anti-LLTE; this has severely impacted the lives of civilians and journalists. Since free journalism is banned in the east, the true story is lost.
Tissa’s wife, Lilani Jayatilaka wrote a personal account of the trouble of July 1983. A Tamil, she experienced a holocaust of terror and persecution against Tamils by the Sinhalese government. In reference to the ongoing strife in her country she writes, “Bullets and bombs do not discriminate. Everyone claims to be right. In the end, everyone is wrong… in this war everyone is a loser. Revenge begets revenge… When will the carnage cease?”
Women and Gender in Sri Lanka by Ms. Shyamala Gomez
Sri Lanka is a male dominated society where the male is considered the “head of household.” For this reason, land ownership and judicial laws do not favor women’s rights. This philosophy can be traced to the Dutch Period of colonization in the 1600’s. There are no laws on sexual harassment, gender discrimination or employment rights and no right to abortion. Not until 1995 did rape (’sex without her consent’) become a crime with a mandatory sentence of 7 years.
The Sarvodaya Movement of Sri Lanka by Dr. Vinya Airyaratne
www.sarvodaya.org
Sarvodaya is a “a self-sustaining people’s movement” that works on village development in the areas of culture, social, economics. To date, Sarvodaya has worked in 15,000 villages across conflict borders. The process is continuous over a period of several years:
1. Bring people together to improve the community
2. Immobilize social support groups
3. Organize village groups
4. Help create village development with assessment of needs and strategies
5. Start economic activities and self-financing
6. Share success and training with neighboring villages
These are some of the types of projects that Sarvodaya undertakes:
o Clean water
o Adequate nutrition
o Simple housing
o Basic health care
o Basic communication
o Min supply of energy
o Educational facilities
Sarvodaya is proof that diverse ethnic and religious groups can live and work together, and people can feel empowered to help themselves.
Traditional Medicine of Sri Lanka by Dr. Nalin Perera
Ayahveda is called “The law of life.” What can the oldest medicine in the world teach us today?
There are three influences at work in our body:
Water – internal movement in the body
Pitta - the energy in the body
Kappa – distribution throughout the body
Diagnosis always begins with taking of the pulse which indicates the tempo and rhythm of the body – “the bowstring of the body.”
Our speaker learned in the temple through experiential learning from his grandfather who was his guru. He shared some ‘uncommon wisdom.”
1. Bad habits – Don’t focus any attention on the bad habit, as it reinforces it. Instead, cultivate another beneficial habit. “Grow a mental rosebush next to the weed.” Slowly the negative habit will fade away.
2. Stress – Physical exertion is a good antidote. Stress is an inseparable part of our being; it is a primary energy to achieve goals. It is the tension that creates magic.
a. Improve diet. Leave behind the processed, canned, fast foods. Eat alive foods, fresh and whole: grains, veggies, grains.
b. Be aware. Live in the present.
c. Have a bigger mission. This gives a spiritual grounding of working for the good of everyone.
The goal of Ayuhvedic medicine is to treat the person, not the illness.
Our stay in Colombo is short – just two days. Tomorrow is a seminar day with 5 lecture/discussion sessions planned. It feels odd to be back here, but so nice to be a visitor instead of a patient!
one of many stupas – or dagodas- in the the city
Colombo mosque
this reminds me of the Charles River in Boston!
our hotel, the Trans-Asia
Mary makes a new friend!
I am simply astounded by these creatures
On the way from Kandy to Colombo, we stopped at the Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage. This MAY have been the highlight of my entire six weeks in South Asia! It most definitely was the highlight of my much abbreviated Sri Lankan tour.
Yael is just a little surprised…
After surreptitiously hiding our banana contraband in our bags, we hiked a short distance up a hill to a meadow where over 200 elephants were feasting on fodder. We literally stopped in our tracks to see such a stunning sight. Some of the elephants had deformities, such as missing legs or ears. Some were outcast from their original herds. Some had wandered into villages. But all lived now here in the orphanage.
a world of flora and fauna beauty
“Don’t tread on me!”
After much picture taking and fondling of the trunks, we headed for the shops near the river. Here would be the best viewing for the movement of the elephants from the meadow to the river for bathing and drinking. Suddenly we heard a siren and the cry, “the elephants are coming!” To see over 200 elephants lumber down a narrow village lane just inches away from us was simply amazing. They are such magnificent creatures.
Shopkeepers frantically tried to keep us protected in the doorways, as the elephants could easily crush us against a wall. Occasionally, one will even wander into a shop.
200+ elephants lumbering down the village lane
bring up the rear
We followed the elephants to the river where we observed their joy at playing in the rushing water. Although the majority kept together, one or two decided to wander upstream, while several more decided to go downstream. Another small group chose to cross the river and spray red dirt on each other. I just kept wondering how the 6-7 handlers were going to manage to herd the herd back together! But they did it effortlessly.
bathing in the river
big boy
sweet relief
I’ll always have warm memories of this special day.
