faces of sri lanka

Sri Lankan boy

a very serious child

school girls

village boys

pensive preschooler

“who are you and why are you taking my picture?”

sweet kandy

view of the surrounding hills

This is an eco-paradise; rainforest, mountains, streams. Our hotel is gorgeous, and luckily, I have the single this time which will help my recovery.

our hotel

Kandy

the lake in Kandy

Buddhist stupa or dagoba

I was so warmly welcomed back by the group with hugs, we-missed-yous, and welcome backs, I was overcome with joy. Then Elizabeth and Jill held up a huge card that everyone had signed that said WE LOVE MARY! I am so relieved to be out of the bad dream and back with the group. Lunch was incredible – I ate more than I’d eaten in the past 5 days – and I started with the dark chocolate fudge! We had just 45 minutes after lunch to check in to our rooms and meet for our 4 PM Botanical Tour. My priority… email Don and my Mom to let them know I was OK.

Mary & Tissa at the Gardens on my first day out!

orchids

the national flower, the lotus

The Botanical Gardens is a vast forest of magnificent trees and flowers maintained by the agricultural department of the University of Ceylon. Our 90 minutes was happily spent absorbing exotic species. I especially loved the trees!

papaya tree

strange tree

the bats in this tree have a 1 foot wingspan!

a really big snail

Upon returning to the hotel, we moved to a lecture about marriage practices in early Ceylon, followed by dinner. Don’t worry, Mom – I have 15 ‘mothers’ looking after me, making sure I don’t overdo it on my first day out of the hospital.

save the nose!

sri lankan hospital report or “mary gets a single”

Day 1

trying to keep my chin up

Everyone has been so kind… Ramya for arranging my hasty return to Columbo for better medical care, Kumara from Fulbright Sri Lanka who drove 8 hours to get me to the doctor, Chitra for taking me to the hospital and checking me in. Karinsa and Callie even called me from Ramya’s cell phone; they are so worried about me and everyone keeps saying, “Mary would love this!” argh. Callie told me some funny monkey stories: Karinsa went out to grab a shirt which was drying on the hotel patio – and she felt tugging. It was a monkey wrestling over the shirt with her! Someone else came out of the bathroom to see a monkey sitting on her desk eating her banana! Gunda bundar! Bad monkey!

The doctor Selvie Perere, too, went out of her way to extend my appointment until 6:15 pm. Her office was next to her garage; a dark room with tall bookcases of old novels and reading material. After taking my history down in longhand, and asking about my symptoms, she gave me a quick physical for vital signs. She also believes this is a bacterial infection, and that it is in “a dangerous area” being to close to sinus passages and the brain. Great. She wrote up an admittance to Durdans Hospital in the center of Columbo, despite the fact that there were no beds available. On our way to the hospital, we stopped at the Sri Lanka Fulbright House so I could leave my luggage there. Chitra offered that I could call Don; even though I got teary, it was so wonderful to hear his calm and happy voice. I’m sure he and my mom are so worried about me… and I can hardly assuage them, as I’m very worried about myself.

my new home

Checking into the hospital was extremely efficient. At the admit desk, they reinforced again that they didn’t have any beds. I agreed that a “trolley” in the ER would be fine. While waiting, I observed that though the hospital was brimming with people, the mood was quiet. All the nurses wore white uniforms with nurses’ caps. After sitting for a while, I was interviewed by an intake nurse about my symptoms. Ten minutes later, I received admittance; suddenly, there was a bed available. After filling out a 10-question form, Chitra paid at the office. After she took me to my room – a single – I settled in to wait for the ‘house doctor’ to visit me. One nurse stopped by to see if I’d like anything to eat. Another nurse came by to take my temperature, and a third one popped in to weigh me.

my ‘guest bed’

A very young Dr. Preetap stopped by around 9 pm – took my history and vitals and asked for The Story. He told me that an ENT specialist would visit me in the morning, and that someone would take blood later tonight. Fifteen minutes later the blood work girls arrived, so hopefully, I am good to sleep. The pain is quite severe, and my nose, cheeks, and upper lip are swollen and flaming red.

Another nurse just stopped by with antibiotics – some sort of cloxocillin (?)… it’s so hard to understand the accents. I’ll have to ask the doctor to write it down in the morning.

Day 2

swelling has spread to the upper lip

My sleep was strange; the one thin sheet and sparse furnishings such a contrast to the 5 star hotels we’ve been staying in. I woke up several times, each time a little more nervous about the infection and the pain. At 6 the antibiotics arrived, followed by breakfast at 7 – 3 cold pieces of toast, a banana, and a fried egg. The head nurse stopped by with an entourage of beautiful Sri Lankan nurses in training – all in white – to ask how I was doing. It’s always “Good morning, madam” or “Miss Mary.” I told her I was very nervous, and she reassured me that Dr. Drahaman an ENT surgeon, would be very helpful

nurses station

My swelling is worse today, despite 2 courses of antibiotics. The left eye is a mere slit and the cheeks are fully blown up now. The upper lip is extremely aggravated, and my nose is so blown up and red, I fear it will never be the same. The pain is excruciating. I am scared.

make it go away!

Meanwhile, back at Kendalama, the crew has free time for biking, safaris, and hikes this morning with a tour to Darmala in the afternoon. Little do they know, that I have an ocean view – though it is over the rooftops of the nearby buildings, I can see the Indian Ocean sparkling in the sunshine.

My room has been a busy place with visits from the floor sweeper, the bathroom cleaner, the food lady, the floor washer, a ward doctor and finally the ENT. Plus a reassuring phone call from Chitra who promised to stop by sometime today. It’s quite odd – no one introduces themselves or makes small talk. I don’t know if it’s customary to ask questions here, but I have been doing my best to jot notes. Even though the doctors speak English, it is very difficult to understand, more so than in India. For instance, “You are from?” could mean your country of origin, the last country you were in, the last hotel you stayed in, or all the hotels you’ve stayed in.

Here’s the scoop: Dr. Drahaman said I have a very bad and dangerous infection which started in my nose and has spread to my face. Unchecked, it could infect my eyes or brain. Very dangerous he emphasized. OK OK… I get it! When I asked him what type of infection, he said the only way to know is to do a biopsy in the operating theatre. He would cut my nose and take a culture; a very unusual and expensive procedure for this hospital. He prefers to put me on an intravenous course of augmentin and check tomorrow to see if the swelling has subsided. If not, then they will try something stronger. Do they even have vincomycin here, I wonder? I sense the doctor feels I’ve acquired an ordinary bacteria in India, but I have no resistance to any of the local bacteria. He asked me to take a picture of my face today, and another one tomorrow – that will help him see if the meds are helping or not.

I just received a call from the Fulbright Director Tissa who was in contact with the doctor, but wanted to hear from me how I was doing. He remarked that I sounded like I was in good spirits. He knows I’m worried, and that those feelings are definitely intensified in a foreign country. It was good to hear that he has the highest regards for Dr. Selvie Percra who is his personal physician. As I was on the phone with him, Dr. Pecra arrived to check on me. All this while two nurses tried, unsuccessfully at first, to start the IV for the augmentin. Dr. Perera has asked me not to worry – she will take good care of me. She inquired as to whether the food was alright and if I had enough to occupy me as I will be in the hospital from 3 to 5 days!

Lunch was interesting – white rice and everything else was yellow – curry, I think. I ate some of the rice and the chicken, and what might be potatoes. There also was a finely shredded green veggie that I attempted. At lunch, I was thrilled to get a call from Joan, Karinsa, Callie, and Samantha! They love where they are, but insist it’s “not the same without Mary.” I asked them to take lots of pictures so they can tell me all about it, and that I hope to meet up with them in Columbo. They were so sad to hear I would be hospital bound for several days, but promised they’d call me everyday. Phew- what a lifeline! They also took Don’s email address, so I hope he gets the scoop from them. I am, of course, concerned about my insurance policies- and whether I will have any coverage. Right now, Fulbright is covering the costs, but I’ll need to reimburse them afterwards.

Day 3

a little better?

Arghh – I’ve got to get out of here. There are little bugs that swarm over the tables scrounging for food – the baggie with my banana and bun had to tossed out. The bed is uncomfortable, the three small sheets going horizontally on the bottom keep coming undone, and I’m lonely. Very lonely. Being in a hospital in a third world country is quite disconcerting. Last night I slept so poorly due to the discomfit of the bed and the pain of my wound, that I made my escape plan. In the morning, I would figure out how to call the American Embassy and try to activate my emergency evacuation policy. The thought of flying 35 hours in this condition is, however, overwhelming.

This morning when I was awakened by the nurse for my injection of augmentin and capsules, I realized I might be feeling a tad better! The view in the mirror showed the same swollen face and a huge red bulbous nose, with additional pockets of swelling all around my eyes. Am I getting better, or am I getting used to the pain and deformity?

DON CALLED!!!! What a saint to persist and get through to me! He didn’t even know what hospital I was in out of the 10 or so here in Columbo. He just started calling random hospitals and asking for me! Finally, he got an email from Joan with the name and number of this hospital. Even though I was teary, it was so good to hear his calm voice update him with how I am doing. He’s contacted both insurance companies – my local and my international, and told me to not worry about the money. He’s been receiving updates from Joan (bless you) and Chitra so that has helped him understand my situation better. It’s a major relief for me to know that he can call at any time and find out how I’m doing. Unfortunately, there have been more deaths in Columbo, despite the cease fire for the All Asia Conference, so my Mom and Don sure have plenty to worry about.

The ward doctor just stopped by and I told her I want to leave, but she says that is up to the consultant. He’ll want to review the culture which might be ready tonight… and he may want to continue the IV injections of augmentin for several more days. Originally he said 3-5 days, and today will be only 2 days by late evening. Unfortunately, he won’t be able to see me until later in the afternoon, as he visits government hospitals (which are free for Sri Lankans) in the morning.

DAMN. The ENT surgeon won’t release me. He wants me on the IV injections at least for 3 more days. He agreed I’m better, but is still very worried about the swelling and redness of my nose and cheeks; he’s concerned about the septum. He just won’t allow me to go gallivanting around the countryside! Dr. Selvie Perera agreed; she said I was lucky that I came in the hospital when I did. So 3 more days in the hospital – Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. I’m depressed. It’s such a contrast to go from traveling to sitting in one small room. I do appreciate their caring for my health, and I definitely got the impression that no amount of arguing would make any difference. I’m staying where they can monitor my progress and give me IV drugs, and that’s that. I’m so disappointed, yet grateful that they’re being cautious. I wouldn’t want to be on a mountain top four hours away from the hospital, now would I? Or would I?

Life is difficult in Columbo right now… the peace treaty has been violated and 12 people have been killed in the city. Many of the streets are roadblocked. Both of my doctors assured me that they would be in to see me regardless of the roadblocks. I can’t even read a paper, because of obstacles delivering them to the hospital. Is there anything else I can worry my mother about? Sorry, mom.

So here’s what I’ll be missing while I hibernate in my stark hospital room:
o Mihintale, ancient Buddhist site deep in the heartland of SL
o Biking tours of Kandalama area
o Anuradhapura, ancient city of Sri Lanka
o Dambulla Buddhist caves
o Discussion on Art, Graffiti, and Society in Ancient SL
o Sigiriya, giant rock with an ancient community on the summit
o Hiking time
o Dalada Maligawa, the temple of the tooth

I should be released on Sunday, which is a holiday for the Fulbright office. Either the driver will take me to a guest house, where a woman will take care of me until Tuesday when everyone returns to Columbo for lectures; or Kumara, the driver, will take me the 100k to Kandy where I can meet up with the group. I hope I can go to Kandy as this would allow me the chance to see the elephant orphanage!

GOD BLESS YOU, Joan! And Karinsa, Callie, Samantha, Jill! Your calls mean so much to me; they are a lifesaver. Hearing your familiar voices breaks the cycle of isolation that I feel here. Joan said, “Don knows you well. He emailed me that Mary would want to join the group before she is recovered.” LOL! I can’t wait to catch up on everything that’s been happening… I will live the Kandalama experience vicariously through your stories and pictures. Jill and Elizabeth drove a tuk-tuk! Sign me up for that adventure.

OUCH… those injections hurt more and more each time. My wrist is red and swollen; I hope they know what they’re doing! At least six more injections to go. Not sure that vein is going to hold up that long.

site of the IV injections

Mom, I know how worried you must be about me, but I am doing just fine (now). Hopefully just two more nights and two more days in this place. Then four days of touring and I will be on my long journey home to beautiful Maine.

Day 4

I’m definitely doing better!

Overcast and gray skies… my friends are off to the ancient city on the mountain. Sigh. Really big sigh. Hiking, fresh air, rocks, trees, archeological ruins, mountain views – this sounds like heaven to me right now. I can’t wait to hear all about it.

OK, let me gripe a little. Sleep was fitful as the one sheet on the bed routine just doesn’t comfort me like a light blanket or puff. With the AC on it’s too cold, with it off, yup, too stuffy and hot. While I’m complaining, I might as well mention that the allotted one tiny bar of soap is rapidly diminishing as I also use it to wash my hair and my clothes. And the one thin green towel is a little musty after 4 days of use. Let’s not forget the bugs crawling over the surfaces of my desk and nightstand. Worst of all, the injections. Man, do I dread those; they hurt tremendously, and my vein is swelling up. Food? I am forcing myself to eat a little. However, they do bring me tea three times a day!

my little green towel

On the plus side: Dundars Hospital is one of the best in Columbo- it’s one of two private hospitals in this city of 2+ million. Care is constant; I’m seen by ‘ward doctor’ – unusually bright and attractive young men and women – at least 2-3 times a day. Nurses pop in constantly, and in groups of 2-3. My admitting physician and specialist have come to see me every day. Apparently this hospital attracts the best physicians and doesn’t have the shortage of nursing staff that government hospitals have.

YEAH! Don called again! He sounded tired with work and home issues, and his worry about me obviously adding another layer of stress. After speaking with my brother Mark about my medical condition, he actually felt more confident about my treatment, though the way they are administering the augmentin seems different. My mom is worried, but apparently was more frantic over the three days bombings in India when I didn’t have internet to let her know I was OK.

I’ve had a busy morning; Fulbright Director Tissa called and Fulbright staff member Ranmali stopped by to visit at the same time. Tissa has been in communication with Dr. Selvie Perera and is pretty sure I’ll have to stay 2 more days. In his last communication with her, he mentioned that I was keen to join the group, but apparently she is very concerned about the dangerous proximity of the bacteria to the brain, and wants me on IV meds for 5 days. Argh. When she stops by today, I’m going to do my best to convince her that I am doing so much better. If I can be released tomorrow, Tissa will talk with Kumara about using his day off to release me, pay the bill, and drive me to Kandy.

Truly, the swelling is now limited to my nose, and even that has diminished to the point where I can see the nostrils again. The throbbing pain has ceased, and it only hurts if I touch it. Unfortunately it is still bright red; maybe that will be my souvenir from Sri Lanka. Ranmali is preparing for a lot of company tonight, and felt badly that she would not be able to visit again this evening, but left her mobile and landline numbers if I needed her for any reason. I assured her I was just fine, and asked her to tell Soraya not to stop by tonight either.

Dr. Drahaman feels I am doing better and would be willing to release me tomorrow, “but that depends on Dr. Selvie Perera.” He will prescribe oral augmentin and Dalacin C to be taken 3x per day for the next 3 days. Should I have any loose movements, I am to stop the Dalacin C immediately and call him. I am not to touch my nose except to apply the cream 2x per day. He also warned me to expect inflammation for up to 2 more weeks, though I should see gradual improvement every day. Overall, this is excellent news… please please please release me, Dr. Selvie Perera!!!!

Injection number 8. EXCRUCIATING. Liquid fire burning through my tender and swollen veins. I am using Lamaze breathing, prayer, and visualization simultaneously – and not with great results.

Soraya and Chitra both called to check on me – so kind. It felt so wonderful to tell them that I am almost fully well! Both are curious about when I might be released, and I am frustrated by not knowing that myself, as they all need to make arrangements. Soraya wanted to stop by to see me, but I told her no as she has had a long trip from Kandalama. She told me that everyone mentions me all the time: “This picture is for Mary… Mary would like this so much… we miss Mary.” At dinner, the director, Tissa, made a toast to me. Soraya said his words were so moving as he summed up for everyone how much they missed my presence. Wow. My first toast and I missed it!

I used a little American assertiveness and politely inquired of the ward doctor at the desk how I should go about checking out tomorrow. I assured him that there is really no sense taking – or paying for – a room that I don’t really need. He did the head bobble thing and spoke in Sinhalese to the nurses who also head-bobbled. Then he said I need to be discharged by Dr. Perera.

Lo and behold, who comes to my room at 6 PM? I was so surprised – but glad. I asked Dr. Perera if she came just because I was bugging the ward doctor and nurses, but she said no. She was barricaded in her house on Parliament Drive because of the Asia Conference, so she had to make late rounds. She chuckled when I told her she should be at the theater or the movies. After asking how I felt, she quietly said, “OK.” In my exuberance, I jumped up and hugged her right on the spot! I profusely offered my gratitude for her expertise and care which she accepted with grace.

I’m going home at 9 am! No more injections! My room in Kandy is booked, and I will see everyone at lunch tomorrow! Yippee!

I was awakened at 5:30 am for vitals after a poor evening of sleep. “You go home today?” was the query. Breakfast wouldn’t stay down – maybe the ice cold toast and eggs? Maybe the fatigue? Maybe the meds? Soraya arrived at 8:45 to check me out and within 30 minutes I had my discharge, my meds, and my bill paid. (67,000 rupees = $700).

Day 5

I’M OUT!!! Kumara had great difficulty getting us out of Columbo; it took over two hours due to roadblocks. The heads of states of SL, India, Pakistan, Afghanistan, Nepal, Bhutan, Bangladesh, and the Maldives were all in town for the SAARC conference, so this brought the highest security along with 45,000 soldiers. So the length of our trip was doubled as we pulled into Kandy at 2 pm – right behind our Tour Bus that had just finished its morning trip to the Tooth Temple. I can’t wait to run in after everyone!

view of coastal Columbo

Brian, look at that billboard for mtn bikes!

i’m alive

After 5 days and 4 nights in Durdans Hospital with an unknown bacterial infection ravaging my facial area, I am free.  After a grueling 5 hours getting out of Columbo (roadblocks due to SAARC conference) and twisting mountain roads,  I’ve joined my group in the paradise called Kandy.

More later!

sri lanka

WE ARE IN SRI LANKA! And we love it! It is an eco-paradise, if you can look past the armed guards and sandbags on the city streets! It has lush foliage, clear skies, long beaches, coconut jungles, and lots of birdlife. Ramya greeted us in the Columbo Airport and we headed to a hotel restaurant for lunch where we got to reconnect with Tissa and meet the other Fulbright Staff. Tissa, who did a post-grad year at Smith, loves New England! As a matter of fact, he was just in Portland and Peaks Island in June and has taught classes at Colby and Bowdoin! (insert it’s-a-small-world-music here). After lunch we received a lovely elephant satchel brimming with materials about Sri Lanka including brochures, articles, books, maps, and CDs.

I only have two problems: a painfully swollen nose and numerous strange bites on my legs. The bites don’t bother me at all, but my nose feels like it will explode! I’m afraid that I have an infection of sorts, so I’ll either start myself on Cipro again, or ask to see the hotel doctor when we get to Kandala.

victoria’s secret

First stop – a garment factory. Since we had read Sanya’s book Stitching Identities, we asked Ramya if she could possibly arrange a visit for us. The site was called Slimline, and they manufactured Victoria’s Secret lingerie. This plant only employs over 4800 people. Bright, neat, and modern, it has training facilities, sport facilities, education facilities and an infirmary. The key employee is the machine operator – mostly women between the ages of 18 and 25 who work for a year or two earning about $125 per month to save money for college or marriage. Transportation from villages and a free lunch every day is provided. Trainees wear yellow bandanas for 3 months, and pregnant women wear orange so they can be easily identified in a fire drill or allowed more breaks. Sports opportunities – cricket, boxing, swimming – are highly encouraged on the plant’s grounds. In addition, the company gives back to the community by helping out with flood damage and building schools and hospitals.

Too bad we couldn’t buy any seconds; all seconds and damages have to be destroyed in order to not diminish the quality of the product.

kandalama

A three hour tortuous bus drive found us in the paradise called Kandalama in the Heritage Hotel overlooking layers of mountains and lakes. Unfortunately, the swelling in my nose has become so painful and throbbing, I’ve been reduced to tears. We called in a doctor who had to drive _ hour up the dirt road to this resort, and he told me to take Cipro and anti-histamine, and gave me a cream for a bacterial infection.

When I awoke in the morning, I begged off the trip to the Buddhist caves, and asked Ramya to see me since most of my face was not swollen and sore. She made arrangements for me to return to a “good doctor” in Columbo – so back I go for 3 hours down the mountain road. She told me to take all my luggage, and that she hoped to see me in 5 days when they return to Columbo. I hope she doesn’t think I’ll have to be in a hospital all that time! Too bad that I’ll miss the most beautiful mountainous jungles and elephant excursions, but I’m very nervous about this strange infection and want better treatment as it is becoming increasingly worse.

poor Callie had to see this when she woke up

I will keep you all posted on my condition as I know more!

thiruvanathapuram

Our flight to Thiruvanathapuram was bumpy as we flew through bouts of monsoon winds, but our hearts gladdened as we viewed the extensive forests of palm trees and a long stretches of sandy beaches from the airplane portholes. Thiruvanathapuram means ‘the home of the sacred snake god Anantha” – the snake upon which Lord Vishnu rests. Thiruvanathapuram is the capital city of Kerala, located in the southeast and running along the Arabian sea for 600K. One hundred and sixteen villages are in the district, and we are staying at the Taj Green Cove Resort in Kovalam, a small resort village directly on the sea. The grounds are lush and tropical and a combination of hills, waterfalls, backwater, and coastline.

As you can imagine, the first thing I did was run down to the beach to walk along the surf. Julie and I soon discovered there would be no ocean swimming here, as the roiling sea crashed on the rocky seawall with a monsoon frenzy. No worries… the eternity pool was an inviting siren, beckoning us all to swim while overlooking the jungle and shore below.

Our first day in Thiruvanathapuram was partly sunny, some showers, humid, and warm. After settling in to cries of “Why are we here only two days?” we reluctantly boarded our bus-home for the sights of Kerala including the Kanakakunnu Palace and Museum and the Kuthiramlkika Palace built by Maharaja Swathi Thirunal Balarama Varam, the king of Travancore. We ended our tour by viewing the magnificent Padmanabha Swamy Temple – constructed in a very different tiered architectural style.

Today, our second day in Kovalam, dawned to heavy monsoons which created a whole new version of paradise. Our first stop was the Centre for Development Studies this morning – a premier research facility established in 1971. Here we had three lectures on these topics:

Comparisons between Kerala & Sri Lanka
Migrations from Kerala
An overview of Pattanam excavation

Each lecture presented a wealth of information, but I particularly enjoyed the first talk by Dr. J. Devika, who interestingly has no last name as surnames denote caste. (Devika is her first, or “good” name, and J. is her mother’s initial.) She outlined several important correlations between Kerala, India and Sri Lanka:

• Buddhism most likely spread from SL to Kerala through SL monks.

• SL and Kerala have nearly identical statistics for life expectancy, birth rate, death rate, and literacy rate (90%).

• Both the SL Sinhalese language and the Kerala language derive from Sanskrit, Portuguese, and Dutch.

• There is, however, a major difference between the two in the area of women’s employment. Women have many job opportunities in SL, possibly because of the high death rate of men in civil conflict. The job rate in Kerala is low due to “Hinduization” of the population which both idealizes the woman as caring for the home and children and limits the number of ‘respectable’ jobs a woman may hold.

• Dr. J. Devika also gave us some interesting stats about women in Kerala:

• There is a higher literacy rate for girls than boys (to grade X for most girls)

• There is a higher rate of domestic violence to women and children as highly educated woman practice “child crafting.”

• “An unmarried woman who wants an abortion is treated like s*!#” (LOL- this is the third time a professional has used this word; it is not considered a vulgar term as we think of it.)

• There is a high rate of sterilization for women; the average age is 28. (Last year 180,000 women and 500 men were sterilized voluntarily.) A major issue occurred when the tsunami hit Kerala two year ago. The tsunami took many of the children, and men left their young wives, as they were unable to bear more children.)

Since we ran over with lecture time by an hour, we rushed through our lunch to prepare for the highligh of Kerala: The Backwater Canoe Trip. By now, the sun was shining through the haze, and despite the 50+ mysterious bites on my legs, off I went to explore the jungles. We loved it! Our boatsman rowed us by pushing a long stick in the water and pushing off the bottom. The decrepit canoe was large enough to hold 12 of us, but moving around was limited as our feet kept punching through the punky wood. We collected mangos and coconuts from the trees as we passed under them, and watch with awe as an eagle swooped down in front of us to catch a fish.

the wooden canoe

last day with our guide Gagan

our rower dude

river boy

Despite the increasing and ominous cloud cover, we headed to the beach. Yael and I were the first ones to jump into the wild Arabian Sea – after checking with the lifeguards about the red flags.

rough seas

swimming in the Arabian Sea
(photo courtesy Jill Hetzel)

Half the beach was closed due to riptides and undertow, but they promised to save us if we had trouble. Shortly we were joined by 6-7 other screaming and joyous teachers as the monsoons dumped their heavy load on us. A large group of Indians – fully clothed – caught the excitement of our fun, and also ventured in a little ways. To top this nearly perfect afternoon, we spotted an elephant on the way home!

elephant sighting!

At the Farewell to India dinner we were treated to an amazing Kerala dance and an all-Indian buffet. We danced to Bollywood tunes before and after dinner with Gagan leading the way with his slick and stylized moves. I have such mixed emotions as we will miss Gagan and the USEFI people so much, yet we are all eager to visit Sri Lanka.

South Indian dance style

Our India trip has ended.

Goodnight – 5:30 am wake up call for the flight to Colombo, Sri Lanka.

last day in bengaluru

child at the Bull Temple

When the wake-up call came in at 7 am, I made the decision to sleep and skip the morning museum visits. Good call, as the morning was non-productive for the group. Everything was closed due to the discovery of an undetonated bomb near a large mall. I woke up at 10 am refreshed and ready to go. What a treat to have 3 extra hours to eat a leisurely breakfast, do some writing and re-organize my suitcases.

After lunch we departed for the Ranga Shankara theater facility where we were able to browse the bookstore and watch a small section of rehearsal. Even more interesting were the four cricket matches all going on in a field across the street! We really wanted to be invited to play. Next stop for the afternoon was the Bull Temple which houses a giant bull made of a single piece of granite that is 15 feet tall and 20 feet long. One of the oldest temples in Bangalore, it is dedicated to Nandi, Lord Shiva’s mount. The entrance to the temple are two giant horns, and cows roam freely around the grounds and streets.

the bull is one block 20′ by 15′

the horns

the temple

Arriving back at the hotel at 6:30 PM, we frantically scurried around to prepare for our home visit at 7:00. Shiva, our driver, took us across the city to the home of Mr. K Konadnadum, where we met his wife Sridevi and his 84 year old mother Sharada. Although Karinsa and I were a little nervous about the food and conversation, we were immediately made to feel at home. The house was built by Mr. K’s father 60 years ago, but they have since modernized the kitchen and bathrooms. It was so interesting so see their well situated just outside their kitchen door in an enclosed patio area. Of their two sons, one works in Scotland, and the other one in Philadelphia.

cooking the meal

Our dinner was South Indian vegetarian with my favorite dish being the rice with coconut and peanuts. Dessert was the most delicious sweet noodle dish. They were so gracious and concerned about whether we would like the food and assured us that they minimized the spices. While we ate, they told us about their marriage which was arranged – by mistake! Sridevi said they are like two bullocks pulling the cart together, side by side they go through life. Hindus marry only once she said. When we asked if they arranged their son’s marriages, she laughed and said “Oh no, theirs was a love match!” As we parted at 10:15, they presented us with gifts and a bindi. “You look so beautiful!” were Sridevi’s parting words to us!

Karinsa and I with our home visit family

July 26, 2008

What’s happening in India? Today the headlines screamed: 24 die as 17 blasts rip through Ahmedabad – Hospitals, Marketplaces, and Bus Stands Targeted.

India is obviously a soft target. On two consecutive days, terrorists have struck in two Indian cities, triggering widespread fears on whether more such attacks are looming ahead. As a sense of helplessness grips the country, experts are pointing out that India is being drawn into the epicenter of terror. (Sunday Times, July 27, 2008)

Although a couple of teachers in our group are nervous and worried, the most of us are quite calm and accepting that this is the way it is. We are wondering if we are just denying the explosions around us as a threat, as there is simply nothing we can do about it. Apparently Bgangaloreans are keeping to their homes in droves as Saturday traffic in the city was estimated to be 40-50% lower than usual. We are quite happy to be leaving the cities and heading to the capital of Kerala, Thiruvanathapuram and the backwater village Kovalam.

indian dinner

Despite the deleterious events in the city, the USEFI officials felt it was safe for us to venture out in the evening. Joan, Karinsa, Callie, Diane, and I dressed in our finest Indian clothes and set off in autorickshaws for the 10K trip to Rachana’s sister Devi’s Clothing Shop.

dressed and ready to go

the autorickshaw ride

We spent several hours examining colorful yards of gorgeous silks and cottons, and Karinsa was so happy to find color combinations that she loved at a price that was so reasonable.

At the fabric shop

After shopping, we relocated to Rachana’s house for our first home cooked Indian meal. I had the thrill of riding sidesaddle on Gagan’s scooter – just as I had admired all the Indian women doing. At Rachana’s house, we met her mother and grandmother and toured their beautiful and spacious three story home. We also met the maid, Mani, a girl of 16 who has been living at their house since she was 10. Here she is a member of the family and attends school, an opportunity she most likely could not have afforded in her poor village where her family lives. The top story contains 4 rooms dedicated solely to guests and visiting family members. For instance, after Gagan and Rachana marry and move into Gagan’s family home in Delhi, they will have plenty of room to stay when they visit Rachana’s mother.

The table is ready

Eating our Indian dinner

The warmth and hospitality with which we were treated will always remain a treasured memory. At 11 PM after much conversation and laughing, we five Americans were seated and served enormous helpings of North and South Indian foods. Rachana was so nervous that we would not like her mother’s cooking, that she had been fretting for days. She had no need to worry as we devoured everything on our plates, including the third and fourth helpings. These folks like to eat! Because of the small dining area, the rest of the family would eat after we returned to the hotel. Our dinner concluded with a caramel pudding, the receiving of gifts of jewelry, and many many photographs. Nani, the grandmother, insisted that I return to stay for a month – and soon! Rachana and Gagan invited us to their wedding… now wouldn’t that be a hoot!!!

Gagan & Rachan
Grandmother & Mother
Dev & Devi

As midnight neared, we regretfully said our good-byes and piled into the family car and onto scooters and motorbikes for the return trip home. YES! I got to ride the motorcycle with Devi’s boyfriend Dev through the cool midnight streets of Bangalore. Weaving in and out of traffic was a thrill that will suffice for a long long time.

Mary gets to ride a motorcycle

We all hope to see Gagan and Rachana again – but this time in the USA, as Rachana wished to study for her MBA in an American university – that is her dream.

8 bombs blast bengaluru

Oh dear! The moment we returned from the Academy for Creative Teaching, the news was broadcasting the detonation of 7 bombs across the city in the span 45 minutes. So far, 1 person was killed and 7 injured. We were very lucky as the school we were visiting was directly across the street from one of the bomb sites at a bus depot – we missed that by approximately 15 minutes. Needless to say, our museum visits for the afternoon were cancelled as the city is in the process of shutting down. All schools, malls, and cinemas are closed. The city is a bit shocked as Bengaluru is not usually a target for terrorists or militants; the bombs are believed to be the work of anti-nationalists. The good news is that we all have time to read, post our pictures, email our loved ones, rest and/or exercise.

More news later…

Photo courtesy ZeeNews Bureau

This is one of the many articles posted in the The Hindu, India’s National Newspaper the day after the blasts, July 25th, 2008:

Serial Blasts Rattle Bangalore; Woman Killed
Seven injured in eight low-intensity explosions

A series of low intensity blasts on Friday rocked the southern and central parts of Bangalore, a city that has of late been on the radar of terror groups. One person was killed and seven were injured in the eight explosions that created panic among residents and threw traffic out of gear on a rainy working day. President Prtibha Patil and Prime Minister Manmohan Singh condemned the blasts. Ms. Patil said the blast was aimed at disturbing peace in the country. Dr. Singh asked the people to remain calm and maintain communal harmony. The series of blasts has not only marred Bangalore’s reputation of being a safe city but also highlighted again that the city is not insulated from such acts.

Bangaloreans hit the panic button as news – and rumours – of the serial blasts reached them. Even as schools made arrangements to sent the children safely back to their homes, several workplaces downed their shutters and let their anxious employees go home early. The surge of frantic calls jammed cellphone networks and thousands of commuters jammed all the arterial roads. Fear gripped residents as they watched the sequence of events unfold on their television sets. With thousands of people trying to contact their friends and relatives to make sure they were okay, much of the telecom network failed for several hours, only adding to the panic.

Meanwhile, our group remained calm, though eager for news of the status of the safety of the city. Although the afternoon activities were cancelled, most of us ventured out to nearby sari shops and bookstores in small groups of two and three. Gagan seemed confident that our evening dinner at Rachana’s house would be safe, so the five of us prepared for our evening outing by donning our new Indian attire of saris and salwar-kameez suits.

academy for creative teaching

Our 4 hour session at the Academy for Creative Teaching in Bengaluru began with the lighting of the lamp of knowledge, a song, a welcome address, and a wonderfully detailed program. We met approximately 30 staff members and advisers who explained that teaching is a noble ‘act’ that spreads the excitement of learning from a spark to a wildfire. This unique organization offers the CCCT – Certificate Course in Creative Teaching, and offers in-service and pre-service for teachers on all levels. The logo shows a swan flying over the sea with the sun shining. The water represents the ocean of endless knowledge. The teacher is like a swan who takes a dip in the sea of infinite knowledge and rises up to the ultimate source of knowledge represented by the sun. The Vision Statement is “To make the teaching-learning process exciting, meaningful and lasting” by infusing teaching and learning with discovery, innovation, excellence, enjoyment, creativity, values, and vision.

Creativity is approached in three modules
Module I – Traits of creativity (quality, perspective, options, support)
Module II – Blocks to creativity
Module III – Techniques to teaching creativity

Their mission belief is “QUALITY OF EDUCATION IS AS GOOD AS THE QUALITY OF TEACHERS.”
• Pre-service training and curriculum
o Induction – provides teachers with essential teaching skills
o Orientation – focuses on creative teaching and modern pedagogical advancements
o Refresher – redefines knowledge enhancement and updates content for conceptual understanding
• Perceived need of ed. institutions
• Knowledge explosion and changed curricula
• Creative teachers and reaching out to learners
• Organized effort at general in-service training (their first workshop they charged rupees 250 – about $7 and now they offer about 265 workshops per year at a much higher fee!)
o Communication Skills
o Presentation Skills
o VARK for Teachers
o Creative Teaching Techniques
o Multiple Intelligence
o Teaching & Learning Styles
o Bloom’s Taxonomy
o Evaluation Skills
o Meaningful Homework
o Strategies for Building Confident Kids
o The Emotionally Intelligent School
o Time Management
o Developing Teaching Aids
o Differentiated Teaching
o Creative Pedagogic Techniques
o Classroom Management
o Human Values
o Stress Management
o Leadership Skills
o Ethics in Teaching
o And more…
• Content specific workshops include
o Teaching Creative Writing
o Creative approaches to teaching English, Math, Science, Social Studies
o Grammar in Communication
o Math and Science in Everyday Life
o Model Making in Science and Math
o Project Work in Pedagogy Classes
o Vedic Maths
o Yoga for Teachers

ACT offers a Master Training Programme with these objectives:
• To bring together a committed and dedicated band of teachers with experience and positive attitudes
• To make the transition from teacher to trainer.
o Intensive training
o Observing training sessions
o Participatory training
• Affiliated institutions: Akshara Foundation, Vidya Poshak, KLE, BLDE, JSS, Poorna Prajna.

Academic Audit – self audit is a path to discovery
• “Health” check-up of an institution
• Assessment of an institution facilitated by the stakeholders
• Not an enquiry but an inquiry
• Audit vs accreditation – more internal
• Accreditation audit-internal standards

E-Lab – Teaching the joy of English
• Designed to inculcate positive attitudes and values through holistic learning of English language
• Indians have high knowledge and many degrees, but poor “communication” skills

Several of the 10 students at the 15
day old International School

The organization has also just started a school this past June which currently has 10 students. In 2008, the Vyasa International School began enrolling innovated and enthusiastic learners. We met 4 of the students in grade 2, 4, 5, and 7. One of the students was a special-needs students mainstreamed with the others (Downs Syndrome). The goal of VIS is “education for life.” Traits of VIS will include the following:
• Training beyond year-end exams to face the challenges of life.
• Instill an awareness of social issues in order to be able to respond in proactive ways working for the welfare of others
• Respect and value for individuals
• Shared learning process of discovery, empowerment, self-confidence, and freedom.
• Learner characteristics: positive, reflective, responsible, joyful, sure of his/her place in the world., secure in knowledge of modern aspirations and needs, innate values of compassion and acceptance
• Confluence of modern technology driven education in a “cradle of ancient wisdom and values” to create the vision of a “glorious and equitable future.”

The principal

Website: www.act.edu.in
Contact: Academy for Creative Teaching
#480, 6th Main, R.T. Nagat
Opp. Bus Depot, Bangalore 560032
coordinator@actedu.in

The director wants us to write to them so “The two worlds can meet in the spirit of humanity.”

My observations: I was absolutely stunned by the intelligence, caring, energy, elocution, and professionalism of the staff at ACT. Every address or reference to a person starts or ends with “maam” or “sir”. I LOVED the creative exercises we worked on at the end of the session – balls in a box, separate the box, paper work with numbers on the page. This showed that the mind is easy to set, but we must learn to accept change unexpectedly. Our session ended with a play about learning and knowledge performed by all the children of the school; it was delightful. I so wished that I could have talked to the middle school students about their learning in the International School, but our time had expired.

“Consciously, we teach what we know; unconsciously, we teach who we are.” (Hemachek)